Meet John B. Exotic foreign type (he's from South Africa!) -- White, and on the young side, with a light build, and racy personality. The perfect companion for a quiet dinner at home (he loves Indian and Lebanese), but always down for a party. John B. will entertain groups of any size, so invite your friends. Though adventurous, John B. is also traditional, and will certainly make a good impression on your parents this holiday season. Non-judgmental, discreet, and cheap, John B. will take on any and all callers. Sound like your kind of guy? Read on for details...
Sorry ladies and gents, but John B., though available, is not a man, but a wine (I know, right? I totally fooled you!). Nevertheless, the Rietvalli 'John B.' Sauvignon Blanc / Colombar 2008 is a hell of a catch. Made with 60% of the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc -- which grows well in the country's southwest -- John B. is blended with 40% of the lesser know Colombar. Know as 'Colombard' in France and the US, this grape is heavily planted for its productivity and ample acidity, and is a primary ingredient in both Armagnac and Cognac. Reliable, and most importantly, cheap, this grape is also a frequent ingredient in box and jug wines, where it is very rarely featured on the label.
In John B., the Colombar's natural acidity and straw notes shine through winningly. This pretty, pale straw colored wine displays notes of pineapple, lemon zest, and dried grass on the nose. It is very dry on the attack, starting out with tart acid, which quickly evolves into clementine, pear, and peppery flavors. The finish is tangy and zippy, with those citrus qualities continuing to dominate the surprisingly lengthy finish.
Seem worth checking out? Well, don't take my word for it -- the John B. was just ranked #5 in Wine Enthusiast Magazine's "Best Buys of 2009" list. Here is what editor Susan Kostrzewa had to say:
Fruity, floral and
feminine, this cheerful white blends Sauvignon Blanc and Colombar. On
the nose—lemon zest, minerals and tropical fruit—and on the palate,
fruity but crisp citrus flavors are balanced by fresh acidity. Want a
go-to summer white for everything from grilled seafood to Indian
cuisine? Check this out. (88 Points)
I picked this one up at Potomac Wines and Spirits for a mere $5.99, and according to their website, Calvert Woodley has it for the same price. This wine, though not terribly wintry, is a great match with lighter fare, like the aforementioned Indian, fish, salads, lighter chicken dishes, and almost anything spicy.
So, honestly, can someone name me something better than pie? Okay, there is Thanksgiving dinner, that's pretty good... and made even better when topped off with pie. So what's best of all, then? How about Thanksgiving, pie, and the feeling of knowing that your dessert helped feed some people in need?
For 20 years, Food & Friends has supported thousands of our neighbors living with cancer, AIDS, and other life-threatening illnesses, providing them with groceries, hot meals and nutritional counseling. Through the diligent work of some 6,500 staff and volunteers,Food & Friends prepares and delivers over 3,000 meals a days, disseminating them to 2,600 clients in DC and surrounding counties.
Of course, even with the most dedicated staff in the world, delivering a million meals a year doesn't come cheap. That's where you come in. Enter Slice of Life, F & F's annual city-wide bake sale. For the third year running, Slice of Life offers a selection of delicious handmade pies, delivered to a number of convenient neighborhood locations, available for pickup on Tuesday, November 24th. Every pie you buy pays for a full day's meals for one of F & F's clients; buy a pie for one of said clients, and you will be automatically entered in a drawing for two free round-trip airline tickets. The 10" pies come in five great flavors: Picture Perfect Pumpkin Pie Thanksgiving would not be complete without this
traditional favorite. The creamy pumpkin filling, in a delectable
crust, has the perfect mix of spices and great pumpkin flavor. You'll
certainly want to more than one for your family and friends. $25
Harvest Apple Crumb Pie Perfectly flaky with just the right amount of
sweetness, you'll enjoy this classic pie filled with a bushel of
apples, spices and topped with sweet crumbles. Whether you serve your
pie alone or a la mode, it's a must have. $25
Oh So Sweet Potato Pie For many, Thanksgiving
means Sweet Potato Pie. This southern specialty, filled with creamy
bright orange sweet potatoes, cinnamon and nutmeg is sure to warm the
hearts of your holiday guests. $25
Southern Pecan Pie Embrace true hospitality by sharing this Southern treat with
your holiday guests. Ya'll will love this delicious buttery crust,
loads of pecans and sweet gooey filling. $35
Creamy Chocolate Cheesecake A chocolate lover's delight! Your guests will go crazy over
this rich, creamy cheesecake topped with a decadent dark chocolate
ganache. It is sure to be a crowd pleaser. $35
Pies are available for purchase here at Food & Friends' website, where you can also register to volunteer on pickup day.
We all know store-bought crust doesn't taste right, and that you just don't have time to make it yourself from scratch! Complete the meal, and do some folks a solid, by visiting that website by Thursday, November 19th — I promise, your dessert will taste all the sweeter for the effort.
UPDATE: Lisa Shapiro of Dining in DC has pulled together a team of local food bloggers to help move some pies. Help team "Food Bloggers for a Cause" meet their fundraising goal by buying your pies here!
Co Co. Sala is a chocolate lounge and boutique that caters to a late night crowd. It says so right on its Web site.
For the most part, that makes sense. It's evening menu is dominated by an array of (mostly) chocolate desserts. At either of its two bars, you can order a chocolate stout or Co Co. Sala's signature cocktail, the cocojito (I'd encourage you to do so. It's quite good. Also try the flight of scotches. Good stuff and a surprise find in the chocolate lounge.) And stationed around the lounge and boutique are blocks and boxes of chocolates for sale, which are made in the back, behind a window, allowing you to watch the chocolatiers at work. Even the décor is heavily accented in reddish brown chocolate tones.
So I get it, Co Co. Sala is a chocolate lounge and boutique. What I don't get is Co Co. Sala's other side. Is it also a restaurant? Should I keep it in mind for lunch or on Sunday for brunch? How about in the evening before I wade into the dessert menu, should I expect to have dinner beforehand?
I don't know. To try and figure this out, I recruited the services of my wife, Trish. She's exactly the kind of chocolate lover Co Co. Sala is courting. Whatever my thoughts are about its savory offerings, Co Co. Sala is a chocolate and dessert destination.
That said, let's start with the savory and end with sweet (that is the natural order of things after all).
My first visit to Co Co. Sala led me to the bar. Now, I either learned that day that Co Co. Sala doesn't have appetizers or has nothing but appetizers. It depends on how you look at it.
The evening menu offers a dozen small savory dishes; from lobster salad, to a blue cheese beef slider, to mac and cheese. I opted for the Moroccan swordfish slider, which came out as a beautifully grilled piece of fish nestled within a tiny, soft bun. It was great. But it was tiny and it was eight bucks.
That's where my main beef with Co Co. Sala lies. With dessert, a little goes a long way. But with savory dishes, more is more (to a point). Put another way, three of those sliders would have made a nice sized appetizer, but it would have put me back nearly $30. That's more than most entrees around town.
So Co Co. Sala isn't a dinner destination. If you want to come in for a five-course dessert, but want to start with tuna tartar, they've got you covered.
During the day, however, Co Co. Sala shifts its focus away from dessert in an effort to attract the lunch and Sunday brunch crowd. Admittedly, I've never tried Co Co. Sala's brunch, but judging from my lunch experience, I imagine it's good.
The problem is, Co Co. Sala is a chocolate lounge that caters to an evening crowd, not a lunch destination in a neighborhood (Penn Quarter) that's loaded with restaurants.
This is not to say Co Co. Sala can't do lunch. During a recent lunch, my beet and goat cheese salad was delicious and colorful. The spinach and feta tart with tiger shrimp was a surprise when it came out as a spinach and feta tart, with tiger shrimp in a dill sauce on the side. Still, it was quite good (the tart tasted exactly like a Pizza Hut pan pizza. I like Pizza Hut pan pizza.) The salami and parmigiano-reggiano sandwich my buddy ordered was good, though it could have used less bread and more meat. But the parmesan and rosemary fries he got were reason enough to make Co Co. Sala a regular lunch destination.
So Co Co. Sala can do savory. It just doesn't seem like it wants to. Or if it does, the savory parts of the menu don't seem well thought out. Although the lounge introduced the lunch service and does brunch, it still feels like a lounge. In the evening, when diners and dates fill the low tables and booths, Co Co. Sala looks like it's fulfilling the vision of owners Nisha Sidhu and Bharet Malhotra. But during the day, when a handful of diners are slumped over the same small tables eating salami sandwiches and drinking iced tea, I have to assume that this is less the vision and more a means of making a few extra dollars.
If I'm right, Sidhu and Malhotra should put some effort into their savory menus and make Co Co. Sala the lunch and dinner spot they seem to be flirting with. Otherwise, they should stick with what they do best: dessert after dark.
Speaking of that, I'll have Trish talk about the desserts...
Trish's Take
So much chocolate, so little time (and money). What's a chocolate-lover to do when confronted by a menu that's at least 75% chocolate? It took me quite some time to figure out what to order. I'd eaten at Coco Sala before, but I hadn't had the appetite to order one of their multi-course dessert offerings. This time I was ready.
To start, beverages. I'm currently in my third trimester of pregnancy, and so unable to enjoy Co Co. Sala's interesting chocolate-themed cocktails on the menu. Unfortunately only one of the drinks is made "virgin," but it lacks chocolate. (For the majority of you who are not in the family way, I highly recommend the cocojito, which I tried some months before the pregnancy. The combination of chocolate with tart citrus and mint is irresistible.)
Happily, the flight of hot chocolates came to my rescue. There are five to choose from, and of the three I had, two could be dessert in their own right. I didn't enjoy the white chocolate, which I tried because I wanted to step outside my dark chocolate comfort zone. After a few sips it reminded me of sweetened, condensed-milk, straight up. But the peanut butter milk chocolate, and the dark chocolate were divine. The peanut butter milk chocolate was rich, silky, and salty with peanut flavor. A cup of this would more than suffice as a dessert after a full meal. The dark chocolate was lighter and more bitter by comparison, although the chocolate flavor was not as strong as I would've liked.
As much as I enjoyed the hot chocolates, I was there for the Monde du Chocolat, Co Co. Sala's selection of 3 and 5-course desserts. After a brief flirtation with the Asian-themed course, I settled on the Italian 3-course because I'm a huge sucker for good tiramisu, the star of the main dessert course.
Three flavors of tiramisu are offered as the "main dessert," with a small dessert course before and after. Before I get to the tiramisu, however, let me praise that first little dessert - a vanilla panna cotta bite with chocolate praline soup. I'm not that excited about vanilla, but I got excited about this dish. The vanilla flavor was so clean and pure I could've happily eaten more than just the three or four tiny spoonfuls that were offered. The chocolate praline soup was second-fiddle at best. But then came three varieties of tiramisu (top photo).
Surprisingly, the "traditional" variety was forgettable: it lacked enough chocolate and espresso to make it worth the calories. The fraise-de-bois, on the other hand, was a knock-out. I would never have thought to put strawberry and espresso together, but they were a wonderful combination with the creamy interior of the tiramisu. The final tiramisu -- chocolate tiramisu -- was just the dark, bitter chocolate hit I was looking for. For all you dark-chocolate lovers out there, this is your tiramisu: everything is chocolate-soaked. The final course of two small Italian cookies included a very interesting ricotta cheese bite, whose light sweetness I thoroughly enjoyed after the tongue-coating dark-chocolate.
Drew's not as into chocolate as I am (that is a significant understatement), but he ordered the main course of the "Xocolatyl: Aztec Experience" trio. The star of the plate was undeniably the tiny chipotle truffle, which had the perfect balance of deep chocolate richness and heat. I've had the pepper/chocolate combination before, but rarely have I tasted it so well executed. The hot chocolate souffle was everyone else's favorite, but I found it bland. (Note from Drew: I really did like this dessert. The sweet/heat thing isn't always done well. It is at Co Co. Sala.)
Overall, Co Co. Sala's sweet offerings provide something for everyone. If you're not a fan of big, rich dark chocolate flavors like me, there's still plenty for you to enjoy. (If you don't want any dessert at all, you're in the wrong place.) And if you're just looking for a chocolate fix, skip the Monde du Chocolat and head for the "Dolce" selection of small plates where you can find a selection of artfully decorated artisanal chocolates with a variety of fillings that will hit the spot without filling you to the point of popping.
Co Co. Sala 929 F St NW Washington, DC 20004 (202) 347-4265 Map
Spain has been a hotbed for value priced wines for several years now, long enough that the wine magazines' calling it the "next big thing" is getting a bit old. It makes sense, though, that the Spanish should make lots of good cheap stuff, having more acres under vine than anyone else, and hundreds of years of winemaking heritage under their belts.
Most of the great values coming out of Spain are thoroughly modern -- light bodied and fruity, but concentrated, high in alcohol, and ready to drink on day one. Contemporary winemaking technology has made this style surprisingly easy to do well, and thanks to modern taste and a bit of promotional encouragement, the fruit bomb style is now the height of fashion.
It is nice, and indeed, a necessity for apartment dwellers, to have wine that is ready to drink without cellaring -- hell, with my tiny wine fridge, if I had nothing at hand but heavy, tannic Bordeaux, I'd be relegated to about a half case a year, which just would not due. Before clonal selection, carbonic maceration and other fancy-schmancy new techniques, the Spaniards came up with their own method of smoothing out their tannic-ass tintos: age 'em well and good.
Traditionally, in Spain's most storied wine regions, no wine was released before it was ready to drink. In poor vintages, this was no problema, as the washed-out juice was about as good as it was gonna be right off the bat. For better years, a complex system of aging designations was established and encoded into law. After six, twelve, twenty-four or more months in barrel, even the tightest wine would reveal itself, after which time it would rest in bottle at the winery for some time before release. The big daddy of the Spanish system is the Gran Reserva. In Rioja, a Gran Reserva must have spent at least two years in oak, followed by another three in bottle, before release -- these criteria vary by region, but are generally pretty stringent, though many producers choose to go above and beyond.
As you might expect, all that aging ain't cheap, so Gran Reservas often fetch a hefty price, most now selling for $100 or more! Thus, when I stumbled on the Bodegas Navalon Anciano Gran Reserva 1999 for $11.99 at Schneider's of Capitol Hill, I was nonplussed. Though I figured it for dubious, over the hill plonk, I let my curiosity get the best of me and picked one up, and was later very pleasantly surprised.
The Anciano Gran Reserva 1999 is a Tempranillo based wine from Valdepenas region of southern Spain; beyond that, I haven't been able to find much credible information. But that's okay, because the wine rocks! The Anciano pours a deep garnet, with brick-red highlights around the edge. Musty leather mingles with prunes, licorice and a hint of woodsy oak on the nose. On the attack the wine is soft, with most of its bitter tannins smoothed away; despite this, the flavors remain amazingly lively considering the wine's age, with tons of blueberry and strawberry leaping to the front. More woodsy and purple fruit flavors shine on in the middle, hung on a full, slightly chewy body, leading to a lengthy earth and rhubarb pie flavored finish.
The balance and fruit flavor on this wine would make it a steal for $25; being 10 years old, and having real, old wine flavor, at half that price, makes it unbelievable. I was told at Schneider's that this was a closeout from a now defunct distributor, but that they'd bought a "good amount," and should have it for awhile. Don't wait till it's gone, as the Anciano is the perfect autumn wine, and I've found it to be a great compliment to lamb, sweet potatoes, and roasted squash. And, as if that weren't enough, you can use the gold wire net to make yourself a sweet glass decoration like mine pictured above!
Heard around the DC Foodies blogosphere this week... The Humble Gourmand noted various Halloween-inspired events are scheduled at area Kimpton hotels. Included in the festivities are Poste's Ghost Roast, featuring a special menu by Chef Robert Weland. Included are baby goat with local Anson Mills polenta, pumpkin soup and concord grape sorbet.
If champagne is more your style, you'll be happy to know that Veuve Clicquot will be pouring freely at Topaz Bar. Sip away as you get a Tarot card reading at their Yelloween Celebration.
For more on Kimpton dates and events, check out THG's post here.
The District Domestic's Chef of the Week is Rachel Harriman, Chef de Cuisine at Sou'wester. Harriman noted that when she does get to cook at home, she prefers to make a pasta dish and believes a rubber spatula is a "must have" kitchen gadget. She's not a fan of the anti-griddle, which aligns with the Chicago Tribune's take on "10 Worst Dining Trends".
Young & Hungry gave readers a peak inside Birch & Barley this week. Beer lovers take note; there are 50 taps, 5 casks and 500 bottled beers from which to choose. Where to begin? A Troeg's Hopback Amber or a Weyerbacher Imperial Pumkin Ale perhaps.
Onto the food at Birch & Barley, ReadysetDC reported that the menu offers homemade flatbreads, and dishes such as Honey Glazed Duck Breast. Upstairs at ChurchKey, a separate menu includes fresh, pressed, roasted and fried plates describes as "American Fare".
Have POTUS's aides been smuggling Pete's Apizza into the White House? DCist reported that President Obama highly recommended Pete's, in fact, he believes "that everybody go there". Obama mentioned this in a speech he gave which highlighted lending initiatives for small business, which Pete's co-owner, Joel Mehr, is a benefactor. Also noted by DCist is a plan to open a second Pete's location, perhaps in Clarendon.
As part of an ongoing effort to alert you, the readers of DC Foodies, to all of the really cool food-related events, classes and opportunities throughout the Washington Metropolitan area, we give you this week's edition of the Foodie To-Do List.
Each Wednesday, we give you a heads-up on a few of the upcoming events that we think look particularly interesting. This week, we've got:
What: Starting tonight, enjoy daily bacon happy hours and a three-course bacon tasting menu to celebrate the smoky, salty taste that makes everything better. A week's worth of celebration should be just enough to make you (and your cardiologist) very happy.
When: Wednesday, October 21 - Tuesday, October 27 Happy Hour 4-8 PM; Tasting menu during normal dinner hours
Where: Restaurant 3 2950 Clarendon Blvd. Arlington, VA
Why: Executive Chef Brian Robinson cures his own bacon in-house, and this is his way of sharing his love of cured pork belly with his guests. Do we really need to sell you on this one?
Cost: Bacon appetizers (bacon on a stick, bacon-wrapped shrimp) are $5 each during happy hour. The tasting menu is $30 per person for a meal including a bacon and egg salad, bacon crusted mahi mahi, and a bacon-studded waffle with maple bacon ice cream.
Asian Inspired Pumpkin Dishes for Halloween at Asia Nine:
What: Pumpkin is the true taste of the season, and Asia Nine is going all out to serve up dishes that show off the gourd with Asian flavors. From Friday until November 1, check out offerings like Halloween Chinese Dumplings with Pan-Fried Squash and Thai Pumpkin Custard.
When: Friday, October 23 through Sunday, November 1
Where: Asia Nine 915 E Street, NW Washington, DC
Why: Dishes like Twilight give a whole new meaning to the Great Pumpkin. Stop in to see how Asian flavors blend with one of the most traditional American vegetables (fruits?). They're even offering a Pumpkin Ale to accompany the pumpkin-focused recipes. Just don't expect roasted pumpkin seeds...those are strictly do-it-yourself at home.
Cost: Pumpkin items are available alongside the regular menu and run from $6 to $12. Check the menu for pricing.
What: It's hard to believe, but Belga Cafe is celebrating its fifth anniversary this month. In honor of this milestone, Executive Chef Bart Vandaele is holding a series of special events. They begin with a four-course, seven wine dinner tonight, move on to a three-course, five-beer dinner tomorrow night, and culminating with a tasting of Belgium's Straffe Hendrik beer on Monday night.
When: Wednesday, October 21 - Monday, October 26 Times vary
Where: Belga Cafe 514 8th Street, SE Washington, DC
Why: Five years is no mean feat, and it bears celebrating with this bastion of Belgian brews and bites on Barracks Row. Maybe the most exciting of all the deals is on Friday and Saturday, when they'll be serving up the original menu from October of 2004 - complete with 2004 prices! Stop by and wish them a happy anniversary.
Cost: Costs vary by event. Tonight's wine dinner is $125 per person inclusive of gratuity and tax. The beer dinner tomorrow is $59 per person not inclusive of tax and tip. The rest of the week you'll be ordering off the menu. Reservations are recommended, so call 202-544-0100 to lock yours in today.
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If you would like your events posted here, please email help@dcfoodies.com with the event info.
I am not a man of faith, but I have heard the word. I have gotten religion.
I have spoken with Greg Engert.
If ever there was a revivalist pushing the gospel of quality hops and barley, Brother Greg would be that man. His church would be Rustico.
For the past three years, Greg has been beer director for the Alexandria restaurant. In that time, his passion for beer -- craft and otherwise -- has turned the neighborhood eatery into one of the area's best beer bars.
The day I arrived to talk to Greg, he was getting the restaurant and his staff ready for Rustico's Oktobeerfest and the 3,000 eager beer drinkers who would descend on the place the next day. It looked like they were gearing up for a military campaign. Kegs, many, many kegs, of pumpkin beer and other fall seasonals were double stacked in the walk-in and along the bar's back wall. Out back, tables, coolers, taps and tents were stacked in the parking lot, ready for assembly.
This is the third year Rustico has put on the event and Greg was expecting the masses. He knows these people. So in addition to the Maerzens and harvest beers, Greg set up a couple cask condition ales. He was gilding the lily. The beer geeks and drinkers who'd show up the next day would be more than happy with 14 craft beers, but the two cask ales would put them over the top.
Greg knew this because it would put him over the top, too.
I realize Rustico is a restaurant, but look at the beer menu. Actually, when I sat down with Greg to talk about Rustico's beer program, he popped out of his chair to show me the menu. Rather than organize beers by style (pilsners, stouts, IPAs) or geography (British, German, etc.), Greg organizes them by flavor. Want something crisp? Try a Brooklyn Lager. How about a beer with a roasted flavor? Have a Founder's Breakfast Stout.
In fact, Greg's fingerprints are on all of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group's (NRG) properties. So if you like the beer lineup at Columbia Firehouse, thank Greg. EatBar? Thank Greg. And then there's the much-anticipated Birch & Barley and ChurchKey, an incredibly ambitious beer bar NRG is opening in D.C. Its success or failure will depend mightily on Greg.
Though these outlets, Greg has quietly spread the word about good beer. Beer enthusiasts who trek down to Rustico know there's a lot of craft beer to be had. But the people heading over to Vermillion can opt for craft over cocktails. The guy who'd be just as happy to have a Bud with his burger at Columbia Firehouse can try a better American beer instead.
And soon, all of us will have a lot more access to a lot more quality beer when Birch & Barley and ChurchKey opens on 14th Street. In a way, Birch & Barley and ChurchKey is the result of Rustico's success and Greg's meticulous work as beer director (Speaking of ChurchKey, check out the blog Greg launched. There's 2,000 words on glassware. This guy is into beer).
Talking to Greg about beer is like talking to Baptist minister about sin and Jesus Christ. He wants you to know why he does what he does. He wants people to enjoy the beer and Rustico as much as he does. Birch & Barley and ChurchKey may be the next big thing, but Greg fully intends for Rustico to remain a destination for beer geeks and regulars.
Although Rustico was launched in March 2006 as a restaurant and beer bar, for the first few months there wasn't consideration given to the beer selection. It lacked focus. The NRG folks recognized this and recruited Greg from the Brickskeller to improve the lineup.
He did.
Today, Rustico has 24 American crafts and imports on draft, as well as a beer engine, because they know from good beer. Local beers regularly find their way onto the taps (Clipper City's Big DIPA Double IPA was on the hand pump the last time I was there), but Greg doesn't necessarily emphasize them. Again, it's about the flavor.
In an effort to strike a balance with Rustico's beer line up, Greg maintains a steady rotation of flavors on draft and in the cooler. So the Hop, Roast, Malt, Smoke and other flavor categories may feature Troegs, Flying Dog and Starr Hill one day. And they may feature Samuel Smith, Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier, and Left Hand the next. It all depends.
Speaking of Rustico's cooler, there's a lot of beer in there. More than 200 different beers as a matter of fact. And the cases of beer stacked on an upper shelf near the ceiling in the back? They haven't been forgotten. Rustico rigged the air conditioning system to keep the rare reserve bottles cool.
All this is well and good, but Birch & Barley and ChurchKey will have 50 beers on draft, and four different beer coolers will be kept at different temperatures to ensure that the beer stored inside will be at the optimum temperature, and the draft-line system will look like a great big beer organ. So why the hell would anyone in the District hump down the damn George Washington Parkway when they have all that right there?
Because it won't all be at the ChurchKey.
Sure, there will be a lot of different, very special beers at the new D.C. spot, but some things -- like the beer Greg brewed at the Sierra Nevada brewery -- will only be available at Rustico. And events like Oktobeerfest, brewer's dinners, private beer dinners and launch parties, will continue at Rustico. So will Greg.
Birch & Barley and ChurchKey is a big project, which Greg is personally and professionally invested in, but he plans to continue overseeing the beer lineups at all of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group's properties, including Rustico. And as long as Brother Greg is at the pulpit of the beer bar he made grand, that place is going to be alright.
Now, Rustico might be a great beer bar, but it ain't perfect. First, Rustico is a restaurant. As I've said before, I like my beer bars to be bars. Chef Steve Mannino might be doing some good work in Rustico's kitchen, but I'd prefer more division between the bar and restaurant. As it happens, Greg and Steve work to bring them together. In fact, Greg is quick to acknowledge the fact that Rustico is a restaurant first and a beer bar second.
Then there are the bartenders. This might be where the most work can be done. One night, the bartender is eager and friendly, introducing himself and attentive to our questions and needs. Another night, another bartender meanders behind the bar. When he gets around to taking our orders or to check our drinks, the 1,000 yard stare is locked in place. The guy may be there, but he's definitely not there. If Greg had a cadre of bartenders working as hard as the first guy, he'd have a hell of a team. As it is, he has a pretty mixed group: some mediocre, some outstanding.
Finally, there's the beer. Certainly, Rustico has one of the best selections of taps and bottles in the D.C. area. But I do have a few quibbles. Let's take the beer engine. My love for this machine is a matter of record. It's one of the greatest devices Western Civilization has ever created. However, it does require a skilled hand to operate. That might explain why during one visit when I ordered a cask ale, the bartender poured half my pint from a pitcher in the refrigerator and finished it off with the pump. When I asked why he did that, I was told it was to reduce waste. That didn't make sense to me then and it still doesn't now.
Also, I don't understand why there isn't a more specific focus on local breweries. One of the great things about the craft beer movement is the emphasis that's placed on supporting local brewers. To Greg's credit, I've always found a few local beers on draft, if not in the bottle. However, being local doesn't assure a brewery a spot in Rustico's lineup. I would hope that it would.
Score:16 of 20 (beer: 7 of 8, atmosphere: 3 of 5, bartenders: 4 of 5, other elements 2 of 2)
Heard around the DC Foodies blogosphere this week... Last week, DC Foodies mentioned an up and coming trend in the DC area; wine bar/bistros. This week, Washingtonian's Best Bites Blog presented an early look at Masa 14, a self-styled tequila bar. One hundred nineteen varieties of tequila will be served until 3 AM on the weekends. More on the fusion influences and cuisine at Masa 14 can be found here.
Counter Intelligence compiled a week's eats including dinner at The Occidental and CityZen. At The Occidental, Chef Scrugg's Fried Chicken Two Ways sounded splendid, with candied orange peel and chamomile tea. A White Pumpkin Soup will be added to his fall menu. You can also read CI's dispatch from Inox, where she unexpectedly enjoyed a rose under the guidance of Wine Director, John Wabeck.
Brightest Young Things had a nice recap of the Taste of Georgetown last Saturday,which, despite the rain, appeared to be a successful event. BYT interviewed local bloggers/writers and judges Amanda McClements (Metrocurean) and Nycci Nellis (The List Are You On It). They were tasked with sampling 50 dishes at the event. McClements picked Morso's octopus as the winner. Clyde's lobster roll and Bourbon Steak's butterscotch pudding rounded out the top 3. For more on Alex Nicholson's report, and mouth-watering photos that will make you mark your calendar for next year, go here.
Fall is really here it seems, with rain, chill and falling leaves cascading gently down from my trees to the browning grass below. That means, it's time for hearty braises, brassicas and root vegetables. Coconut and Lime made Roasted Pork with Caramelized Onions, Roasted Potatoes and Apples. It's got 1/4 cup of bourbon in it- how bad could that be? Seriously.
Finally, The Arugula Files conquered kale with Molly (Wizenberg, not Stevens) in a dish called Braised Kale with Spaghetti and Chorizo. TAF used Neiman Ranch chorizo for the dish, and recommends a good Parmesan or Grana Padano to finish.
Twelve years ago, Matt Nadeau started brewing beer in his basement in northern Vermont. With a great deal of hard work, and apparently, some damn fine brewing intuition, Matt and his wife Renee built their brand, Rock Art Brewing, into a regional favorite. Fast-forward to early '09, Matt and Renee are running a thriving business, crafting award-winning beer, and employing seven people in the Morrisville, VT area.
Amongst Rock Art's most popular beers is the Vermonster, a hefty American barleywine created to celebrate RA's 10th anniversary, made with a pound of dried hops in every barrel, and sporting a healthy 10% abv. On September 14th, Matt received an email from a lawyer for Hansen Natural Brands — owners of MONSTER energy drink — commanding him to cease and desist all promotion, marketing and sale of the Vermonster, under threat of litigation.
Matt and Renee hold the Vermont rights to the name Vermonster, so where's the problem? Unfortunately, given the structure of the US legal system, it's in the courts, and it's big. Though several lawyers and other council have told Matt that there is no infringement issue, and that Hansen's claim that the beer will "dilute the distinctive quality of Hansen's MONSTER marks" is ludicrous, they have almost to a man advised him to give in. You see, even if Matt were to fight this in court and win, it is within Hansen's rights and ability to appeal almost ad nauseum, and once Rock Art finally throws in the towel, Hansen wins by default. At an estimated $65,000 per court appearance, the Nadeaus can hardly afford one trial, much less a half dozen.
So what's Matt gonna do? Well, with true New England grit, American pride, and that "Live Free or Die" spirit (yes, I know that's New Hampshire, just go with it), Matt is fighting it. In the man's own words, "It's principles at stake, it's liberty at stake, it's justice that's at stake, and I'm being told it's for sale. I don't buy it." Though his campaign is in its nascency, the story has gotten a good amount of media attention, with the source list growing every day. Many stores have boycotted the MONSTER brand, and with more attention, no doubt many more will follow suit.
So if you are a believer in the little guy (or, at least, a supporter of good beer over bubbly neon crap) and want to help Matt and Renee out, what can you do? First, watch the video at the top of this page, and send it to like-minded friends. Secondly, vote with your dollars; though I assume most of you aren't big fans of the energy drinks, if you are looking for a boost, go for, like, Red Bull, or something, not MONSTER. Lastly, use the powers of the interwebs to spread the word: Follow them @RockArtBrewery on Twitter and RT their messages, friend "Rock Art Brewery" on Facebook, and send letters of support to rockart@pwshift.com.
We lose more and more of our freedom to corporate interests every year, and in the face of such immense power and capital, who's to say how we can resist? Methinks Matt expresses it succinctly at the end of the video: "We run the show people, we run it all. We just need to talk and communicate and work together." That's an empowering message we could all stand to heed just about now.
As part of an ongoing effort to alert you, the readers of DC Foodies, to all of the really cool food-related events, classes and opportunities throughout the Washington Metropolitan area, we give you this week's edition of the Foodie To-Do List.
Each Wednesday, we give you a heads-up on a few of the upcoming events that we think look particularly interesting. This week, we've got:
What: Spend your Saturday night learning all the right moves for your next sushi outing. Trevor Corson, who has literally written the book on sushi, will be on hand to talk about everything from seat selection and omakase to beverage pairings and sushi-making. Participants will even get to roll and eat their own sushi during the class.
When: Saturday, October 17th 6:30 PM
Where: CulinAerie 1131 14th Street NW Washington, DC
Why: Trevor Corson knows more about sushi - from its historic roots up through the most recent developments involving the global population of bluefin tuna - than just about anyone else outside of Japan. After three hours with him, you'll know everything you need to turn your average sushi experience into a Komi-like parade of delectable dishes. As if that weren't enough, you'll go home with a signed copy of his book, The Story of Sushi.
Cost: $145 per person. Sign up via CulinAerie's website (registration required) or call (888) 789-COOK (2665) for more details.
Willow Creek Farm's Third Annual Fall Festival:
What: Family-friendly fun that's actually friendly to the whole family can be tough to come by. The folks at the Clyde's restaurant group are putting on their annual weekend of music, food and farm animals (a petting zoo) out at their Willow Creek Farm. 30 minutes from the city, this place is a far cry from Old Ebbitt Grill or your local Clyde's outpost - in addition to being a restaurant, it's a real working farm whose produce travels from farm to table in a matter of minutes.
When: Saturday, October 24 and Sunday, October 25 Noon to 5PM
Where: Clyde's of Willow Creek Farm 42920 Broadlands Boulevard Broadlands, VA
Why: In Washington, the Clyde's Group is best known for shellfish and classic American fare. But Willow Creek Farm puts a different face on the group, and this weekend represents a great way to experience it for yourself. Enjoy the live music and everything Clyde's has on offer for the weekend - it's a great getaway just a short drive outside the city.
Cost: Admission is free and open to the public. Food is available for sale, with prices ranging from $3 to $5 per item.
"Modern Gentlemen" with Jason Tesauro, a Four-Part Series of Classes at the Morrison House:
What: Do you know how to carve a turkey? How to enjoy a good cigar? Fine, hotshot - how about how to open a bottle of sparkling wine with a saber? Author Jason Tesauro is leading Washingtonians on a four-part journey covering these and other topics in an effort to help them become true "Modern Gentlemen." Each two-hour class will cover a different subject area: Sticks & Stones (cigars & whiskey), Brews & Birds (craft beers & carving), Corks & Forks (wine & food), Fizz & Flasks (cocktails).
When: Wednesdays - October 28, November 18, December 16, January 27 7:00 PM
Where: Morrison House 116 South Alfred Street Alexandria, VA
Why: This isn't your typical "how to impress ladies" or "style for dummies" type class. Tesauro will walk participants through his subject matter in a way that highlights the whys and hows. Ideally, men will leave each class eager to put their new knowledge into practice - becoming true Modern Gentlemen along the way. And knowing how to knock the top off a bottle of champagne with a sword isn't too shabby, either.
Cost: Classes are $80 each, but anyone who signs up for all four receives a complimentary dinner and a night's stay at the Morrison House "to show off their newfound skills."
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If you would like your events posted here, please email help@dcfoodies.com with the event info.